The Casa Rosada

I remember reading the World Book Encyclopedia when I was a young child (yes – I did actually “read” the encyclopedia) and coming across articles about celebrations and customs around the world. This was when I first learned about Argentina. Then, of course, when I was in high school, I got to go see the Broadway show Evita, which further kindled my interest in Argentina, and Buenos Aires (”B.A.”) in particular.

My first long term relationship was with an Argentine, so that further stoked my interest in all things Argentina.

Argentina is one of those countries (much like the U.S.) that is very blessed in terms of natural resources. The land is fertile and plentiful. There is a thriving livestock industry (the gaucho, Argentina’s version of the cowboy, is an important part of Argentina’s culture). The western side of the country is marked by the Andes mountains. In those mountainous areas, there are numerous vineyards that put out some of my favorite wines (malbecs, cabernets, etc.). There are great ski resorts (such as Baroiloche). There is plentiful access to the water (on the Atlantic and the Rio de la Plata).

Unfortunately, like so many other countries in South and Central America, the various governments of Argentina since independence have been more concerned with lining their own pockets than with the welfare of the people of Argentina. It is a simplistic view to say that this was the reason for Eva Peron’s astonishing popularity with the people. But it certainly played a role. Most of Argentina’s leaders – Juan Peron included – did little for the people.

I am hopeful that the country is now on a different path. With the horrors of the Guerra Sucia (the Dirty Wars) of the 70’s (where people who disagreed with the powers-that-be mysteriously disappeared in the middle of the night never to be seen again) behind them, and the volatility of the economy and currency also (for the time being) behind them (including the retiring of Argentina’s crushing foreign debt), the country in general and B.A. in particular are now able to concentrate on the future. Buenos Aires is once again becoming the jewel of South America. A city with a pulse and vibrancy that can rival any major city in Europe, but infused with a Latin point of view and ability to revel in all that life can bring.

My partner and I finally had the opportunity to visit Buenos Aires in 2001. It was very shortly after the 9/11 attacks in New York City. When we arrived in Buenos Aires, the Argentine Peso was tied to the American Dollar at a 1:1 ratio. By the time that we left a week later, this would be changing.

Boca area of Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires had been enjoying some success at the time, but there was increasing financial pressure on its currency and its people. While we were there, we discovered that the government had frozen the bank accounts of all the people of Argentina. They were not allowed to withdraw funds from the bank. There were also several “shadow currencies” that were being distributed at the time. The state of Buenos Aires was issuing federal IOU’s called federales that were promises to pay, backed by the government. Of course, no one wanted these federales.

By the 4th or 5th day we were there, we were seeing the stories on the news of the people that were going hungry because they could not buy food. Some people had resorted to attacking grocery stores and stealing food since they were unable to buy it. Also, people’s attitudes towards America and the World Bank were quite negative as the current financial state was as a result of conditions placed on the country for billions of dollars of loans that the World Bank had made to them. Some American icons were being “firebombed.” The McDonalds nearest to our hotel (also near the famous Avenida 9 de julio) was hit by Molotov cocktail style bombs and had to be boarded up and closed. The government actually issued Martial Law orders. We did not know this at first, but we found out one night when we were walking around looking for somewhere to eat dinner. We noticed that there was almost nobody out and finally stopped some people to ask what was going on.

We also later learned that the President of Argentina had resigned and taken off in a helicopter from the top of the Casa Rosada to take refuge outside of the country.

On one of the city tours that we took to see the city, our group was actually stopped by several policemen who thought we were about to loot a grocery store. In our hotel, they had closed the lobby and turned off all of the lights so that it would appear that the hotel was not open. Those of us that were staying there were asked not to go out. We were provided food in a back room of the hotel, again so that we would not be seen from the street.

The local citizens were parading around near the Casa Rosada (which is the Argentine White House), banging their pots and pans, demanding change.

Needless to say, this was all a bit scary. However, my partner and I never really felt in danger. It also gave me a unique view into the troubles that afflict various nations.

Since that time, we have not had the opportunity to go back (as much as I want to), but I have been following what is going on down there. It is hard to watch international travel stories without hearing how hot of a destination Buenos Aires is now. It is once again an affordable, charming city that is drawing tourists in by the hundreds of thousands.

Recoleta Cemetery

So what is so interesting about B.A.? One of the things that I saw there that most impressed me is the Cemetery in Recoleta. Its major claim to fame is that it is the site of Evita Peron’s grave. And yes, that is very interesting. However, the whole cemetery is unlike any I have ever seen in the US. The only one that I have been to in the US that even comes close is the Lafayette Cemetery in New Orleans. But this one in Recoleta is so much bigger and more impressive.

The mausoleums are immense. Standing in the “aisles” of the cemetery is more like being in a city. There are “high rises” on both sides, the high rises being the individual mausoleums of various prominent Argentine families. This was not a graveyard for the “common folk.” It is truly something not to be missed.

The Recoleta area is one of the wealthiest areas of the city (kind of like the Beverly Hills of Argentina). It is filled with great restaurants, shops, wine stores, tango shows, and just about any other kind of entertainment that you could ask for. It is also, I believe, one of the hottest areas of the city in terms of popular hotels and hangouts for the well-to-do.

Another staple of Buenos Aires is the tango show. The Tango was born in Argentina. I am a big fan of dance, and the Argentine Tango is probably my favorite type of dance. I never actually got to go to a formal tango show while in Buenos Aires. I did however get to see an impromptu street performance, something that happens all over the city. This was probably better than a show. The dance is breath-takingly beautiful. It is provocative and sexy, and also requires a great amount of skill to do it well. The couple that we saw did it well. Once they started, anyone that was near us felt themselves drawn to the performance and unable to simply walk by. All I can say is “WOW!”

Of course it is impossible to discuss Argentina without discussing the food – especially the beef. I have long been a fan of the Argentine parrillada (literally “grill” – it is a mixed-grill of various parts of the cow and pig). Argentina churrasco (strip steak) is incredibly tasty. All of it gets topped with an Argentina sauce called chimichurri, which is basically a mix of parsley, garlic and oil (with additional spices depending on who makes it). Don’t forget the Argentina empanada – basically a meat pie that can be filled with beef, chicken, or vegetable. Many cultures have a variation on the empanada, but the Argentine empanada is my favorite! The food will not disappoint in Buenos Aires.

I am definitely looking forward to being able to return to Buenos Aires and see how the city has grown since I was there 7 years ago.

If you would like to see a few photos that I took in Buenos Aires, click here.